Henna has been used for centuries as a natural hair dye, conditioner, and treatment. Its rich, deep tones and nourishing properties make it a popular choice for those seeking a chemical-free hair care solution. Whether you're looking to enhance your natural color, cover grays, or improve the health of your hair, henna offers a wonderful alternative. Here's your complete guide to applying henna on your hair.
1. Choosing the Right Henna for Hair
Look for henna that is specifically labeled for hair use, as this is usually made from high-quality leaves and is finely sifted for smooth application.
Some henna powders may contain added herbs like amla, bhringraj, aloe vera, or flaxseed. These blends are great if your goal is to use henna as a conditioning treatment for shine—but not ideal if you’re looking for rich color coverage. For henna hair dye, always choose 100% pure henna leaf powder with zero additives. This ensures you get the strongest dye release and the most vibrant, long-lasting color. |
2. Preparing A nourishing Tea for the Paste
To prepare henna paste for your hair, you’ll be adding warm water or warm herbal tea to create a smooth, workable mixture. This is where you can get creative and customize your blend by choosing a tea that nourishes your hair. While henna can be mixed with plain warm water, I love adding a hair wash tea for maximum benefits. To make this, simply add your choice of herbs to water and bring it to a boil.
Some of my favorite herbs for hair-nourishing teas are chamomile, which soothes the scalp and adds shine; peppermint, known for stimulating the scalp and promoting growth; sage, which naturally helps darken hair and strengthens roots; and curry leaves, packed with nutrients for healthy, vibrant hair. Feel free to get creative and add any herbs that suit your hair’s needs—there’s no limit to how you can tailor your henna mix for the best results.
3. Mix Henna Paste & Store for Dye Release
Once your tea has finished brewing, strain it thoroughly to remove any herbs, leaving only the infused liquid. Slowly add the warm tea to your henna powder, mixing as you go, until you achieve a smooth, lump-free paste. For hair, I like to aim for a consistency similar to curd: not runny, but just thick enough that it glides off your spoon slowly and smoothly. This consistency ensures the paste is easy to apply and sticks well to the hair for even coverage.
I’m not too fussy about getting the henna paste perfectly smooth for hair use, but I do make sure to break up any clumps of powder so they’re well mixed in. Once the paste is ready, I cover the bowl with plastic wrap (Saran wrap). I like to press the plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the paste, pushing it down gently and sealing it against the sides of the bowl. This helps keep the moisture in and allows the paste to develop properly. I leave it overnight, and by the next day, you’ll notice a dye release—this appears as an oily film on the surface of the paste. That’s the Lawsonia molecule at work, which is the natural compound responsible for coloring both hair and skin.
I’m not too fussy about getting the henna paste perfectly smooth for hair use, but I do make sure to break up any clumps of powder so they’re well mixed in. Once the paste is ready, I cover the bowl with plastic wrap (Saran wrap). I like to press the plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the paste, pushing it down gently and sealing it against the sides of the bowl. This helps keep the moisture in and allows the paste to develop properly. I leave it overnight, and by the next day, you’ll notice a dye release—this appears as an oily film on the surface of the paste. That’s the Lawsonia molecule at work, which is the natural compound responsible for coloring both hair and skin.
THE NEXT DAY... |
4. Prepping Your Hair
Prepping your hair before applying henna can make a big difference in the results. Some people find that washing their hair beforehand helps achieve a darker color and better coverage. Personally, I prefer to spray my hair with an apple cider vinegar rinse (using a 1:4 ratio of ACV to water). This helps cleanse the scalp of any residual products, opens up the hair follicles, and adds a little more acidity—which henna loves! While henna can technically be applied to either dry or damp hair, I find that wet or damp hair is much easier to manage and makes it easier to slather the paste on evenly.
Section Your Hair:
Divide your hair into sections, starting from the nape of the neck and working upward. Use clips or hair ties to keep sections separate. Apply the henna paste thoroughly, focusing on the roots for even coverage. I like to divide my hair into five sections, with the crown in the center—this helps me reach all areas and adds more dimension to the color. You can make smaller sections if needed to ensure the paste gets into every part of your hair. |
5. Applying Henna to Your Hair
Wear gloves to protect your hands, as henna stains skin.
Start applying at the roots, working your way down to the tips. You can use a hair dye applicator, brush, or your hands—personally, I find gloved hands work best, as they let me really massage the henna in and coat the strands thoroughly. Make sure to apply a thick layer of paste to the scalp and hair, so it fully penetrates and covers grey. I also apply henna beyond my hairline to catch tricky hairs around the ears and neck. While henna will stain the skin for a few days, this step helps ensure full, even coverage, especially for stubborn greys. |
6. Keeping Henna Warm & Moist for Optimal Color
Once the paste is applied, cover your hair completely with plastic wrap or an opened plastic grocery bag, making sure to go over your hairline—I even cover right up to my eyebrows. This keeps the paste warm, prevents it from drying out, and makes rinsing much easier, which is important for scalp health. Dry henna is harder to remove and can leave the scalp feeling stressed, so keeping it moist is key.
Henna needs time to develop its color. The longer you leave it on, the deeper the stain: for a lighter color, leave it on for 1–2 hours (on blonde hair, expect a bright red without additional herbs like Indigo, Cassia, or black Walnut powder, etc).
For a deeper color, leave it on for 3–4 hours—or even overnight for more intensity. Personally, I have black hair and I leave my henna on all day. It’s my dedicated cleaning and gardening day, so I make the most of the time while my henna works its magic. This method gives me fully dyed greys (since I use a two-step henna and indigo process to achieve black hair) and nourishes my hair and scalp throughout the day. |
Optional: Wrap a towel or bandana around your head to trap heat and help the dye develop even better.
7. The Right Way to Wash Out Henna
Once your desired time is up, it’s time to rinse the henna out. Start by rinsing with water only—this is crucial. You must rinse thoroughly until the water runs completely clear, with no brown tint remaining. Be sure to flip your head and rinse the back, sides, and especially around your ears, as henna can easily get trapped there. I find that using a scalp or shampoo massager really helps ensure the henna is fully removed from the scalp.
After the water runs clear, apply a generous amount of conditioner--do not use shampoo yet. Massage the conditioner into your scalp (again, I love using a scalp massager for this), then rinse it out completely. You’ll likely see more henna coming out at this stage—keep rinsing until the water is clear.
Wait at least 24–48 hours before shampooing your hair to allow the color to fully develop. Dry your hair naturally or with heat. If you have dark brown or black hair, or are doing a two-step process with indigo, you’ll want to start the second application either while your hair is still damp from rinsing or within the next 12 hours.
For extra softness, next time you mix your henna, you can add aloe vera or egg to your paste if you find henna leaves your hair feeling dry.
Over the next 48 hours, your color will deepen to its final shade—expect a bright copper glow at first, which will settle into a richer tone.
After the water runs clear, apply a generous amount of conditioner--do not use shampoo yet. Massage the conditioner into your scalp (again, I love using a scalp massager for this), then rinse it out completely. You’ll likely see more henna coming out at this stage—keep rinsing until the water is clear.
Wait at least 24–48 hours before shampooing your hair to allow the color to fully develop. Dry your hair naturally or with heat. If you have dark brown or black hair, or are doing a two-step process with indigo, you’ll want to start the second application either while your hair is still damp from rinsing or within the next 12 hours.
For extra softness, next time you mix your henna, you can add aloe vera or egg to your paste if you find henna leaves your hair feeling dry.
Over the next 48 hours, your color will deepen to its final shade—expect a bright copper glow at first, which will settle into a richer tone.